F.A.Q.

Frequently Asked Questions

My red eared slider has laid eggs, now what?

-If a red eared slider has laid eggs, than they have to be picked up and moved within 24 hours after the fertilisation. After this, the fission is in such a far stadium that the embryo is on top of the yolk. If the egg is moved at that moment, than there is a chance that the yolk comes on top of the embryo and the embryo will suffocate. If the eggs have been laid in the water they are no longer viable, because the eggshell is porous and water will enter the egg. The number of eggs is 5 to 25, but it will usually be around 10. Depending on the origin of the animals, temperature and many other factors, the eggs will hatch out between 1½ and 4½ months. Yet, the actual number of days is usually between 60 and 80 days. The ideal temperature is between the 28 and 31 degrees Celsius. In order to let the eggs hatch out under the right temperature and humidity, a very good and professional hatcher is essential. There is just one more thing we have to be very clear about; we are absolutely no supporters of brooding with red eared sliders. A female red eared slider that has been separated from a male for years can still lay eggs. These could be unfertilised, but if the female has been with a male within 5 years before the laying of her eggs, then there is a good chance that the eggs are fertilised. Because of this we are among others afraid that we will get even more animals for shelter, besides the already thousands of offered animals for shelter.

I want to filter the accommodation of my turtle, how do I do that?

-First something about the use of (Norit) coal. Norit coal is a semi natural product that is extremely porous, by which the so-called nitrifying bacteria lodge massively in it. These (aerobe) bacteria need a lot of oxygen and running water. The bacteria can degrade an enormous amount of waste. Norit coal does not kill anything, it purely works as lodge material for the nitrifying bacteria and it also has the capability to absorb many colours and smells. A disadvantage of Norit coals is that it is pretty quick saturated because of this. The bacteria will keep on doing what they have to do, but the absorption of smells and colours will quickly become less, usually with an average of a month. Than there is still active coal that is specially treated and the life span of it is notably longer, usually about three to four months. This product is ideal for the use in aquarium or in large quantities for ponds. Norit is used with the supposed biological filtration, the working of it is the same as is briefly described above. We are unfortunately forced to change over to mechanical purification. Because of the enormous amount of urea and faces that are eliminated by turtles, the biological filter cannot do its work properly, unless the biological filter roughly has at least the same content as the basin in which the turtles live. By using mechanical filtrate it is possible to wipe out all the filth that is in the water. This way of filtration is particularly effective, especially when a UV-filter is used to kill the possibly harmful bacteria. It is true that the good bacteria are also killed but they have practically no effect on the purification process because the water also passes through the used sediments with a higher speed. The average size of a mechanic filter is notably smaller than the one from a good biologic filter, and can be particularly effective with a capacity of some dozens percents in proportion to the basin. When you do want to use a biological filter, make sure that the dimension, the length x the width x the depth is at least as large as the surface and the depth of the water part in the accommodation of the turtles. Also make sure that the filter is divided into four spaces. The best thing is that the water runs into the filter through a hole in the plate of the bottom that is provided with a tap. Make sure that this happens from the water part via an overflow pipe. (See enclosed attachment with a drawing of a schematic survey of a biological filter).

Division per compartment: the first compartment is the part where the water comes into the filter, you can use an easy, cheap and quick replaceable material such as rough cotton wool for filters. It is best to fill the second compartment with porous stones such as a substrate for ponds (garden centres). It is best to use the third compartment for coral sand. This keeps the pH (degree of acidity) a bit higher, because the pH can quickly drop due to the enormous amounts of urea that are present in the water of turtles. Always leave the last compartment empty for a quick and unhindered circulation of the pump that has to be placed in this compartment.

When the pump is obstructed, the water can easily flow through the space above the partition wall, and the aquarium can never flow over. Because of the effects of the bacteria, the water will run through the obstructed compartment after a few days.

Make sure that there is a good level proportion between the aquarium and the filter. In other words, make sure that the water can only come into the filter via the overflow pipe through the supply of water, via the pump, to the aquarium. In that way, the aquarium can never be without water and the filter can never overflow. Also make sure that the place where the water comes into the aquarium is just above the water surface, because otherwise the water will flow back to the filter and the filter will still overflow.

Place a heating system in the first compartment of the filter, because there is always water in this compartment, and never in the last compartment.

I want to buy a turtle!

-Foundation Turtle is a nonprofit organisation and we advise private individuals and organisations about keeping turtles and what the best way is to take care of them. Besides this, Foundation Turtle is also busy with the realisation of the largest and most modern biggest covered reception centre for turtles in the world. Because of what has been stated above, our statutes, house rules and the agreements made with colleague organisations and the government, we cannot and will not provide data about and from dealers of native and exotic animal species.

What should be the size of the accommodation of my turtle?

-You can use the following measurement in order to decide if your turtle needs a bigger accommodation: The accommodation should be at least four times the length of the largest turtle, the width should be at least three times the width of the shield. The height of the water should be just as high as the average length of the turtles.

How do I have to equip the accommodation of my turtles?

-It is sensible not to put anything on the bottom, if you want to have an accommodation that is easy to clean and to keep clean, which is of course important for the hygiene. You could chose for artificial grass, because this gives a natural effect and is easy to clean. And the turtles do not see a turtle swimming upside down under them all the time. Make sure that the heating system is concealed in such a way that the turtles cannot touch it or crush it. We advise you to put the heating system in a PVC pipe that has a diameter of 32mm. The best thing you can do is to fit the pipe of the pump where the water flows out to the PVC pipe by which there is a good circulation along the heating element. Remove the side where the water is sucked as far as possible from the side where the water flows out. The most sensible thing to do is to have a simple piece of land without sand. You can also here use for example artificial grass and glue this to a plate of glass. Up here you place a good reflex lamp of, for example, 25watt, and the lamp should be at least on for six hours. Make sure that the turtle cannot reach the lamp and that the temperature on the land will not higher than 40 degrees Celsius. You had better use a striplight when you want to use an ordinary light, and you have to leave the light on for 12 hours a day. This lamp should contain 5% UVB light (especially for reptiles), and it is available in the pet shop. Always make sure that the aquarium is covered with a plate of glass or something else, because turtles hate draught.

My turtle has long nails?

-Only male red eared sliders have long nails and they are one of their sexual characteristics.

The shell of my red eared slider comes off?

-When the shell of the red eared slider comes off, the turtle is growing. Red eared sliders are one of the few species that loose their plates. Do get these out of the water before they can damage a motor filter.

Red eared slider in the pond!

-A red eared slider is perfectly capable to survive outdoors in our climate, even though they do not get as old as their species that live in captivity indoors. But your pond must fulfil to a number of conditions in order to raise the chance that they will survive. At least one part of the pond must face south, so that the turtles can enjoy every ray of sun. The pond also has to be at least 80 cm deep and the bottom has to be muddy, so the turtles can retire there during their winter sleep. Give them high-quality granular fish food or high-quality granular koi-carp food and your turtles loves it. Cover a sunny part for the winter with glass or transparent foil, so the turtles can take a sunbathe in the winter without lying in the wind or cold. Red eared sliders cannot be placed in a pond before they are 15cm long and they are 100% healthy. Place your turtle in a pond in the warm months such as June or July, do not do it any later because than the turtles have not enough time to get used to the cold before the winter comes, and it might be freezing at night. In general, the turtles can be kept together with goldfishes and koi-carps. If the turtles do eat the fish, then they get seriously ill in 99 of 100 cases. Sometimes a turtles catches a fin, but they usually grow back on and has no permanent damage.

Should I be aware of salmonella with my turtle?

-Especially turtles that get fresh meat are very sensitive to salmonella infection. Chicken meat is one of the great causer. A method is to fry or cook the meat first, only this is not good for the animal. After all, they do not get it cooked or fried in nature. If you follow the tips we give you at the various descriptions of species, the chance for infection is very little. Make sure you always wash your hands with a disinfecting soap after you have been close to the turtles with your hands. The salmonella bacterium is usually carried by infected meat or eggs. Or for example, when the water of your turtles is not kept clean. This bacterium cannot be carried by air, that is Legionella pneumophila.

My turtle loses his plates?

-It could be that it is just a normal repulsion of the old skin, and just like with humans (after getting burned by the sun) this is accompanied with itching, so your turtle could go rubbing against something. When there are vesicles or blood under the skin that is letting lose, you should immediately consult a vet. Our advise is to contact the veterinary medicine `faculty div special animals in Utrecht.

Can my turtle have its winter sleep?

-Since the red eared sliders are (sub)tropical animals of origin, most of them will have a winter sleep. Yet, these animals are found throughout all of the United States. All these animals come together at turtle farms, and the animals from all regions are crossbred here. Even the animals we have here for years that copualte get children from 'mixed' parents. So if one specimen is used to have a winter sleep because it comes from a colder region than his or her partner, than there is a problem with the newly born animals. Bear in mind that specimens smaller than 10 centimetres cannot have a winter sleep yet, and that the winter sleep should not be any longer than 4 months. You will know when your turtle wants to have its winter sleep, because he or she will behave very calm than. Most red eared sliders keep their winter sleep on the bottom of the basin. When the animal behaves more quietly, stop feeding them. When the animals have not eaten for a week, turn out the heating system (in case there is one), and change the water. Do change the water every now and then during their winter sleep. Preferably, place the animals in a separate basin, of which the height should be at least the same as the width and the maximum length of the shield. Than place the animals on a cool spot that is 100% frost-free, and preferably has a temperature of 7 or 8 Celsius, but no higher. Check your animals regularly to see whether they still react to stimuli, like a touch. When it is springtime, let the temperature slowly get warmer and the animals will become more active. There is a good chance that your animal will die during its winter sleep, often the animal has not been very fit, but it is a way of natural selection.

How old can turtle get

- That depends on the species. Some turtleees will live only a few years, while other specimens have been reported to live up to 40 years. They can even outlive you with the proper care.
-Red-Eared Sliders are estimated to reach about 30-40 years of age. This range is probably similar for other small water turtles. Box turtles get over a 100 years old. Large tortoises have been known to get over 300 years old. Sea turtle's life span is similar to humans.

Animals in captivity live longer than animals in the wild, usually.

How Big Will a Turtle Become

That depends too, but they can grew up too 30 cm (11.8 inches).

What Does the Turtle Eat

- They will eat everything you feed it. A sure thing is crickets, earthworms, aquatic snail, fish, fruits and vegetables, commercial food with Vitamin supplements.

How Often Do I Have To Feed the turtle

- In the wild the turtle will eat when heee/she is hungry, Most turtle keepers feed their turtle(s) one good size meal every two days. I feed my turtles every day.

Can a Turlte Get Fat

- Yes, your turtle can get fat. If your turrtle(s) is fat, the skin will overlaps on its legs when he/she tucks them in.

Why should I listen to you?

  I'm not sugjesting that you just listen to me.  I have only been keeping reptiles and amphibians for 3 or 4 years, and am by no way am an expert.  I would sugjest that you find many sources before you decide on the proper care of an animal.

Before You Get Another Turtle / Your Turtle is NOT Lonely

A lot of people ask me whether they should get a second turtle or tortoise as a companinion for their animal. They wonder whether their pet is lonely. Or they would like to get a second turtle/tortoise for breeding. My first answer is: "Don't." Usually, turtles/tortoises that people acquire as babies or juveniles, get along well. However, as turtles/tortoises mature, and their hormones kick in, more often than not they will start to bicker and pester each other, and then you are stuck with one setup and a number of turtles that don't get along.